Winter Skin Moisturizing and Natural Moisturizers

What is “moisturizing” and what is the best one to use in the dry, winter months?  Moisturizing can be a complex mixture of chemical agents specially designed to make the skin softer by increasing the skins water content. This may be done with artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients or lubricants. It may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers or made from natural ingredients.

Although one can prepare a simple moisturizer using one or two common pharmacy ingredients creating your own homemade recipe, most prefer to have their moisturizers ready-made without all the time and hassle of making it themselves.

Reducing Tight, Dry Skin

A basic skin care tip to reduce dry skin is to moisturize after washing. Try to open up your pores letting in as much water as you can. Then seal in with your skin moisturizer.

Approximately 30% of the water in your outer layer of skin will be affected by external conditions.The other two thirds are affected by hormonal levels, toxins and disease (such as hyperkeratosis or acne) etc.

Moisturizes are among the most used and prescribed products for the skin. Unfortunately, the cosmetics industry claims for “miracle” treatments or reduced aging can be unsubstantiated when advertised in the extreme. No moisturizer can remove 20 years from your face or change broken capillaries. But it CAN reduce the appearance of wrinkles, remove fine, dry lines and give your face an overall more plump and thus, youthful appearance. When you combine your moisturizer with sunscreen, it can also reduce the future UV damage you may get from the sun and reduce skin aging even further.

Physicians, cosmeticians and consumers alike should be aware of the real science behind skin moisturization, and know what is possible to achieve and what is not. The addition of vitamins (A,B,C,D and E), nutritive agents and protein agents have been common in the industry recently, supposedly to add the capability to treat several skin conditions such ascellulitis, age and photo damage, loss of collagen, wrinkles, etc., sometimes with little or no scientific evidence for such. Of course, this has the effect of increasing the price tag of the product, although the basic and real effective components are very inexpensive. The bottom line is to be  smart consumer. Do your homework and know exactly what you are buying.

Adverse Affects

Despite claims to the contrary by the cosmetics industry, complex moisturizers may cause a number of adverse effects, including allergic reactions to some of its components, skin irritation, contact dermatitis, characterized by redness, itching, burning, and stinging sensations, or may actually increase dehydration. When used near sensitive spots, allergic reactions may be enhanced in some people. Use of plant extracts, some alcohols and proteins may increase the danger of adverse effects. Cosmetic and therapeutic moisturizers should be accompanied by the printed formula in order to inform consumers adequately, as well as physicians, in order to easily and quickly identify the offending component.

How Moisturizers Work:

The most external of the skin layers, the “corneal stratum” is largely formed by squamous cells. Natural skin care moisturizers work in these outer layers which are constantly being shed and replaced by the growth of new cells coming from the deeper layers of the skin. Most, if not all, agents present in moisturizers are unable to penetrate these deeper layers of skin. The water content in this outer layer of skin is proportional to the external relative humidity, and the thickness and flexibility of this outer layer of skin increase with added water content. Evaporative loss of water from the skin increase in certain circumstances, especially if relative air humidity is decreased (the winter months) thus producing dry, tight skin.

Keeping the skin moisturized is proven to be the best way to sustain that youthful and healthy glow. It is also your preventive measure to delay the effects of natural skin aging such as the formation of wrinkles and other fine lines. Going for natural products guarantees efficient and safe use, over the application of synthetic ones. But with the numerous options available, what are the top ingredients that should make up an effective moisturizer?

Coconut Oil

Coconut oil is a popular component of many moisturizing agents with its natural hydrating features, affordability and availability. This oil is extracted from the meat or core of the coconut fruit which has been dried out. It has several applications, mostly to hydrate not only the skin but also the hair. Its richness results in a soft and silky lather that is safe to use everyday.

Avocado Oil

Avocado oil is effective as an intense penetrating agent with rich moisturizing features. It is loaded with vitamins and minerals, specifically A, D and E. Avocado oil is rich with proteins that augment the skin’s collagen supply when applied topically on the skin. It is a rich source of vitamin E that naturally reverses the signs of skin aging. Avocado oil can be mixed with other whitening ingredients and fruit acids, and applied to fine to deep lines on the forehead.

Macadamia Extracts

Macadamia nuts, like other nuts such as almond and shea, are natural anti-oxidants that effectively combat free radicals that damage the skin. Macadamia, however, yields the most concentrated extract that contains about forty percent palmitoleic acid. Macadamia is the best choice to hydrate severely dried skin. It is a common ingredient among anti-aging products. Macadamia extracts quickly seep through the skin to moisturize irritated skin.

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa is a time tested ingredient among natural and home made moisturizers. For centuries, cocoa has been used in bathing, exfoliating and moisturizing. Its rich oil is effective in smoothing the damaging effects of the sun other external factors. Cocoa butter is safe for the use even of pregnant women to moisturize irritated skin.

Beeswax

Beeswax is one of nature’s valued moisturizers. Derived from the transparent fluid that is produced by a bee from its hexagonal booths, pure beeswax is safe and compatible to the human skin. It adds to the skin’s moisture by boosting the natural oil supply.

So follow the tips above through these dry, cold, winter months to nourish and truly moisturize your skin. Remember to replace your skin’s natural sebum each time you turn up the heat or lounge in a long hot bath to avoid drying, cracking flaking and redness.

Author: Rachelle Dupree
Vivoderm Marketing and Communications

Why Should I Look Out For Parabens and Sulfates? (Pt 2 of 2)

Why Should I Look Out For Parabens and Sulfates? (Pt 1 of 2)

Many consumers today have spent vast amounts of money to improve their appearance. Cosmetic surgery  and the topical skincare industry are multi-billion dollar businesses.  It’s a simple law of economics that the higher the demand, the more skincare manufacturers will flood onto the marketplace. When demand for cheap, readily available products is high, quality ingredients tend to take a backseat over inferior, more accessible ones.

Many consumers today have spent vast amounts of money to improve their appearance. Cosmetic surgery  and the topical skincare industry are multi-billion dollar businesses.  It’s a simple law of economics that the higher the demand, the more skincare manufacturers will flood onto the marketplace. When demand for cheap, readily available products is high, quality ingredients tend to take a backseat over inferior, more accessible ones.

Many skincare products are unfortunately rushed to market to meet this demand without any real consideration to research and development. Most of the budget may go into the marketing of the product. On the surface everything looks great. The bottles and jars that the creams come in look appealing. The magazine advertisements are glossy, complete with a youthful looking model or a well known celebrity who may not even use the products themselves. But underneath the jar lid, one can typically find un-pronounceable ingredients chemically formulated to “imitate” their natural predecessor.

It seems incredible, but many skin care products are loaded with ingredients that actually harm your skin over time. Some of the more controversial preservatives used in recent years are called PARABENS.

WHY ARE PARABENS BAD?

According to Wikipedia, “Parabens are a class of chemicals widely used as preservatives in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Parabens are effective preservatives in many types of formulas. These compounds, and their salts, are used primarily for their bactericidal and fungicidal properties. They can be found in shampoos, commercial moisturizers, shaving gels, personal lubricants, topical/parenteral pharmaceuticals, spray tanning solution and toothpaste. They are also used as food additives.

Their efficacy as preservatives, in combination with their low cost, the long history of their use, and the inefficacy of natural alternatives like grapefruit seed extract (GSE),[1] probably explains why parabens are so commonplace. They are becoming increasingly controversial, however, because they have been found in extremely low concentrations in breast cancer tumors (an average of 20 nanograms/g of tissue). [2] Parabens have also displayed the ability to weakly mimic estrogen (a hormone known to play a role in the development of breast cancer).[2] No causal link between parabens and cancer has been established, however.[3]”

The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in their report “Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products in the Environment: Agents of Subtle Change?” reported that the chemical preservatives called parabens—methyl, propyl, butyl and ethyl (alkyl-p-hydroxybenzoates)—displayed estrogenic activity in several tests.

This means that these chemicals mimic your body´s own hormones and can have endocrine-disrupting action when they are rubbed into your body or washed down the drain into your drinking water. These disruptors interfere with your body´s endocrine system: your hypothalamus, your ovaries, your thyroid—virtually every system in your body. The EPA also stated that “continual introduction of these benzoates (parabens) into sewage treatment systems and directly to recreational waters from the skin leads to the question of risk to aquatic organisms.” Scientists in Europe found other endocrine-disrupting body care chemicals in the bodies of fish that humans are eating, and in human breast milk.

Many organic and natural skincare practitioners claim organic herbal medicinal tinctures made from high quality organic herbs and organic grain alcohol are shelf-stable for around two to three years. These include foods considered by the FDA to be “self-preserving” and containing no preservatives, such as: honey, maple syrup, vinegar, olive oil, sugar, and wine.
According to one organic website, a self-preserved 100% organic moisturizing body oil made from organic sunflower oil, organic cocoa butter, organic coconut oil, organic peppermint oil and organic spearmint oil can have a shelf-life of up to 18 months. While this is HALF of its chemically-based brothers and sisters, some are finding those states to be more than palatable.

The Natural Skincare Authority lists, tea tree oil thyme essential oil, grapefruit seed extract, bitter orange extract among some of the alternatives to synthetic preservatives.  Contrary to popular myth the decaying process is natural and happens with or without preservatives. In reality, preservatives serve only to delay the inevitable. Skin care products (just like food) do not and should not last forever. If left for long enough they will deteriorate and go rancid.

Simple actions like storing your natural/organic products and recipes in the refrigerator will help extend their shelf life (naturally). Taking the time to understand what you are buying and spreading on and through your skin can result in a healthier, happier, longer-lasting you.

1. a b von Woedtke T, Schluter B, Pflegel P, Lindequist U, Julich WD (1999 June). “Aspects of the antimicrobial efficacy of grapefruit seed extract and its relation to preservative substances contained”. Pharmazie (Greifswald, Germany: Institute of Pharmacy, Ernst Moritz Arndt University,) 54 (6): 452–6. PMID 10399191.
2. a b c d Harvey PW, Everett DJ (2004). “Significance of the detection of esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens) in human breast tumours”. Journal of Applied Toxicology 24 (1): 1–4. doi:10.1002/jat.957. PMID 14745840.
3.  Golden R, Gandy J, Vollmer G (2005). “A review of the endocrine activity of parabens and implications for potential risks to human health”. Critical Reviews in Toxicology 35 (5): 435–58. doi:10.1080/10408440490920104. PMID 16097138.

Treatments for Adult Acne

When one thinks of acne, a teenager may come to mind first. No one expects to have acne as an adult but it is more common than one might think. On average 50 percent of women and 25 percent of men are affected by adult acne. Adult acne is usually attributed to hormonal shifts, allergic reactions to skincare products or medications. The good news is many new treatments and procedures are available.

The cause of adult acne remains unknown, but is often attributed to genetics and hormonal changes. Contributing factors can include: side effects from certain medications, cosmetic products with high oil contents, excessive sweating, diet, stress, pregnancy, and menopause. An acne lesion, blemish or clogged pore is caused when bacteria multiply excessively within the hair follicle. An oil-releasing blockage then develops from the sebaceous gland and enlarged sebaceous oil glands produce an overabundance of oil. Blockages of bacteria and oil then build, leading to adult acne problems such as pimples, inflammation, cysts, and scarring. Adult acne most often appears on the face; however, it can appear on the arms, legs, buttocks, and torso.

Adult acne is a fairly new problem as adult acne has just recently become an epidemic. Acne previously had been a concern of teens and young adults. Dermatological and esthetic treatments for adults will likely be very similar to those used to treat teens. To prevent acne, hormonal and life style changes, such as diet, may be incorporated. The findings have suggested that a lifetime of exposure to hormone enriched foods and medication may be a main culprit in this new wide concern of adult acne.

The appropriate treatment for acne varies depending on each individual. Adult acne treatments include ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retin-a, accutane, sulfur, tetracycline and/or a variety of over the counter medications. However, there’s more than medicine to treating adult acne. To obtain the best results treatments should include not only skin care products that target acne bacteria, but make changes that affect the body’s internal system. A multifaceted approach of treatments, behaviors, and diet is often most effective. Here are a few simple strategies to help you combat adult acne:

•    Consult your doctor about hormonal changes
•    Follow a daily skin care regimen
•    Protect skin from pollution and environmental damage
•    Avoid touching your face
•    Avoid exposure to sun and excessive cold
•    Select non-oil based cosmetic products
•    Eat a well-balanced diet

Natural remedies can also work alone or in combination with professional assistance in clearing adult acne. As stated earlier, diet is a very important factor in adult acne. A diet rich in colorful fruits and vegetables, help fight free radicals and skin damage that may be left behind after the acne has cleared. Ointment or creams that are rich in Vitamin E can fight against bacteria and sooth the sensitized acne are. Tea tree oil and herbal extracts have been known to clear acne by fighting bacteria and regulating oil production. Zinc and Zinc Oxide are also excellent to reduce acne breakouts and prevent acne due to their anti-microbial properties.

Herbal extracts or herbs to look for in topical or ingested formulas include burdock, yellow dock, cleaver, and sarsaparilla. As adult acne has been a fairly new area of study for dermatologists and estheticians, it is best to follow a treatment plan that is unique to your severity of acne.

Four Step Skin Care for Men

Today more than ever, men are concerned with skin care and taking care of their skin. Most skin care lines are geared toward women and concerns that women have with skin health, while few are geared towards men’s skin health. The following are easy and fast tips for men to follow to start taking care of their skin, without the confusion of too many products or steps. Men’s skin care should include a daily face wash, a mild facial scrub, proper shaving techniques, and a moisturizer containing sunscreen.

Face Wash

Men should cleanse their skin with a mild facial cleanser morning and night. Cleansers should contain cleansing agents and be mild with moisturizing ingredients that help balance skin ph levels. Cleansing, morning and night, will remove excess oil and dirt, keeping pores clear and skin less prone to break outs.

Facial Scrub

A mild facial scrub that contains micro beads or exfoliating components such as papaya seeds can aid in over all skin health and shaving irritation. A facial scrub can be used a few times a week. A good tip is to leave the scrub in the shower and use on days following shaving. Scrubs help to shed dead skin and keep pores free of debris. Using a scrub a few times a week will also reduce ingrown hairs.

Proper Shaving Techniques

Whether you choose a wet shave or electrical, the skin should be cleansed prior to shaving. If using the traditional wet shave techniques, cleanse the skin first and use a shaving gel or cream to reduce irritation, cuts and skin snags. Shaving gels aid the blade over the skin causing the razor to catch the hairs and not the skin. For electrical shavers, cleanse and dry the skin and be sure that the blades of the electrical shaver are properly cleansed and sanitized. Electrical shavers can harbor bacteria that can then be transferred to the skin, causing irritation. An after-shave or mild facial moisturizer should always be applied after shaving. . After shaves often contain ingredients that will help reduce irritation and sooth the skin, while a moisturizer will sooth and hydrate the area.

Moisturizer with Sunscreen

As men tend to have more oily skin than women, a morning moisturizer containing a sunscreen is usually enough to properly moisturize men’s skin. However, if moisturizing at night is preferred, choose a light moisturizer that does not contain sunscreen. A day time moisturizer with sunscreen will protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun, while moisturizing and hydrating the skin, leaving it healthy and smooth. A night moisturizer would follow a night cleanse and would be beneficial for older men or men that have a drier skin type. The same moisturizer can be used day and night if it does not contain sunscreen, however a sunscreen should then be applied over the moisturizer during the day.

While it is widely known that most men will not take the same amount of time women may to take care for their skin, these tips are the basics to a great complexion for any man. With a little bit of discipline, any man can have younger-looking, smoother skin too.

By Tiffany Oney

Tiffany Oney is a licensed esthetician, professional makeup artist and natural skincare authority.  She is currently pursuing her Bachelor of Arts in Communications Studies California State University, Long Beach and interning with Vivoderm Natural Skincare in Los Angeles, California.

Anti-Acne Benefits of Green Tea

What is Tea?

Tea is the common name for the Camellia sinensis plant. It is the agricultural product of the leaves, leaf buds, and internodes (the portion of a plant stem between nodes) of the plant that are prepared and cured by various methods. “Tea” also refers to the aromatic beverage prepared from the cured leaves by combination with hot or boiling water.

Tea is known for its stimulant qualities largely attributed to caffeine. Today, herbal teas are known to have many health benefits, preventing a variety of conditions, from heart disease and cancer, to gum disease, skin aging and weight loss. The major types of tea include black, green, oolong and white, differing by the method of harvesting and processing.

The beneficial properties of tea are attributed to polyphenols. The polyphenols found in tea mainly belong to the subtype called catechins. Polyphenols or catechins are better known as antioxidants that fight free radicals. Free radicals are damaging to skin and body by attacking healthy cells. Green tea has more catechins than black tea; white tea is almost as rich in catechins as green tea but is different in composition and less well studied.

So How Is Green Tea Good For My Skin?

There have been number studies of skin benefits of green tea. One of these studies show protection from skin cancer by demonstrating topical green tea formulations can reduce sun damage.(1) Another fascinating study in 2003 was conducted by Dr. Stephen Hsu of the Medical College of Georgia Department of Oral Biology. His findings determined green tea was able to rejuvenate old skin cells at the end of their life cycle.

A quote from Dr. Hsu’s paper explained, “…we report here for the first time, that at certain concentrations, EGCG or a mixture of the major green tea polyphenols stimulated aged keratinocytes to generate biological energy and to synthesize DNA, possibly for renewed cell division.

Therefore, green tea constituents may be useful topically for promoting skin regeneration, wound healing, or treatment of certain epithelial conditions such as aphthous ulcers, psoriasis, rosacea, and actinic keratoses.” (2) Dr. Hsu went on to comment he was “so surprised” to discover EGCG actually reactivated cells that had migrated toward the surface of the skin to ‘die’.

Green tea appears to manipulate sun damage protection by fighting free radicals and reducing inflammation rather than by blocking UV rays. Therefore, green tea enhances sun protection when used in addition to a sunscreen. To boost sun protection, apply a green tea formula under your sunscreen to elevate the level of sun protection. It is best to combine green tea with zinc oxide-based sunscreens because zinc oxide is chemically inert and should not react with green tea (which some chemical sunscreens might do, especially in sunlight).

Topical green tea is also very beneficial for sensitive skin types by reducing inflammation and irritation in the skin. Wrinkles, skin sag and other signs of aging have been shown to benefit from Green tea. The tea’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory polyphenols slow down signs of premature of aging

Green Tea and Pimples

A green tea and pimples study suggests it to be as good as benzoyl peroxide cream in treating acne conditions with fewer side effects. Scientific research has shown that green tea fights bacteria, inflammation and reduces stress. Perhaps it would be an excellent candidate for treating acne?

In the study, conducted by Dr. Jennifer Gan-Wong from the Memorial Medical Center in the Philippines, 108 participants were divided into two groups. One applied benzoyl peroxide cream and the other green tea extract cream twice daily for 12 weeks. Subjects were examined and photographed each week by dermatologists. The researchers noted the green tea cream seemed to lighten patients’ skin color and improve the overall appearance of their complexion.

The preliminary data suggests that green tea cream causes fewer side effects than benzoyl peroxide. Patients in the green tea group reported fewer cases of dry skin, itching and allergic responses.

Use green tea at home to boost your skins health, appearance and reduce signs of aging by freezing freshly brewed green tea as ice cubes and use them as a toner. Let them start thawing first before applying directly to the face to avoid irritation. You can also drink green tea or take green tea extract in capsules to benefit from the anti oxidant properties. The polyphenols will reach your skin via the bloodstream in sufficient amounts.

Using green tea in your skincare routine has definite proven benefits to slow skin aging, reduce acne and protect your skin from cancer among many others. Just be aware of the products you choose. Like most antioxidants, green tea polyphenols are oxidized and can lose their active constituents when exposed to air.

By Tiffany Oney and Rachelle Dupree

References:

(1) Green Tea Polyphenol Treatment to Human Skin Prevents Formation of Ultraviolet Light B-induced Pyrimidine Dimers in DNA (2000). Santosh K. Katiyar, Anaibelith Perez and Hasan Mukhtar. Clinical Cancer Research Vol. 6, 3864-3869, October 2000.

(2) Green Tea Polyphenols Induce Differentiation and Proliferation in Epidermal Keratinocytes (2003). Stephen Hsu, Wendy B. Bollag, Jill Lewis, Qin Huang,

Baldev Singh, Mohamed Sharawy, Tetsuya Yamamoto, and George Schuster. Journal of Pharmacology And Experimental Therapeutics. First published on March 27, 2003; DOI: 10.1124/jpet.103.049734

Treating Acne and Blackheads

Acne and Blackheads

While we may not realize it, those tiny black dots on our noses, backs, in our ears and on our cheeks are blocked skin pores known as blackheads. Blackheads are dark in color because the tops of the skin pores are open to the air, so the top part of the hardened sebum or oil oxidizes, turning black (and where the term blackhead comes from).

Sebaceous glands tend to produce more oil than usual during puberty, and may be regulated to due specific hormonal changes, with some individuals continuing to experience blackheads into adulthood. Acne results when the oil gland is blockage by the blackhead and becomes infected.

Blackheads can be controlled through healthy skin regimens and the right treatments. Common health disorders like indigestion, constipation, under active thyroid and anemia may also cause blackheads.

What causes Blackheads?

When an over active sebaceous gland (the gland that produce healthy oils) in the skin becomes clogged with sebum, the oily secretion and dead skin cells begin to harden in the pore and results in a blackhead.
Help and treatment for people with Blackheads

Many herbal and homeopathic remedies have been formulated with specific ingredients to help keep pores unblocked and promote a healthy amount of skin oils. Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree Oil) has exceptional anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-septic actions and will not dry out the skin. Arctium lappa is used naturopathically for the treatment of chronic skin conditions, including acne, eczema, psoriasis and canker sores.

Aspalathus linearis (Rooibos) is now known worldwide for soothing and healing effect on the skin while Bulbine frutescence is effective in preventing skin infection, healing and soothing cuts, rashes, insect bites, burns, cold sores, pimples and other skin problems. Zingiber officinalis, Aloe ferox and Hamamelis Virginia-num are also exceptional natural remedies for skin health and moisturizing.

Tips to Clear Acne and Blackheads

As far as possible, keep your skin clean and try to get regular facials (done by a professional) or if you can’t afford them, try a simple, natural facial at home.

If your skin is very oily, remember that very oily skin attracts even more dirt from the environment. Keep absorbent tissues on hand, and blot your oily patches at regular intervals throughout the day.

As far as possible try to apply only natural-ingredients based products on your face. (Use natural or chemically prepared cleansers, astringent solutions or masks). Avoid harsh soaps that may irritate the skin or any creams that leave an oily finish. Don’t be tempted to use ‘quick fix’ methods or odd lotions, and if you are unsure, or if something sounds odd, consult with a dermatologist beforehand.

Acne Causes and Facial Mask Treatments

What Is Acne?

There’s a reason it’s called “common acne” — nearly everyone suffers from outbreaks of pimples at some point in life.

It starts when greasy secretions from the skin’s sebaceous glands plug the tiny openings for hair follicles (plugged pores). If the openings are large, the clogs take the form of blackheads: small, flat spots with centers darkened by exposure to air. If the openings stay small, the clogs take the form of whiteheads: small, closed, flesh-colored bumps. Both types of plugged pores can develop into swollen, tender inflammations or pimples or deeper lumps or nodules. Cysts associated with severe cases of acne (cystic acne) are firm swellings below the skin’s surface that become inflamed and sometimes infected.

Although acne remains largely a curse of adolescence, about 20% of all cases occur in adults. Acne commonly starts during puberty between the ages of 10 and 13 and tends to be worse in people with oily skin. Teenage acne usually
lasts for five to 10 years, normally going away during the early 20s. It occurs in both sexes, although teenage boys tend to have the most severe cases.

Women are more likely than men to have mild to moderate forms into their 30s and beyond.  Acne lesions are most common on the face, but they can also occur on the neck, chest, back, shoulders, scalp, and upper arms.  Acne isn’t caused by a harmful diet, poor hygiene, or an uncontrolled sex drive. The simple truth is that heredity and hormones are behind most forms of acne. Swearing off chocolate or scrubbing your face 10 times a day won’t change your predisposition to this unsightly, sometimes painful, and often embarrassing skin problem.

What Causes Acne?

The cause of acne is not fully understood. Though stress can aggravate acne,  it clearly does not cause it.  Hormones. Common acne in teenagers starts with an increase in hormone production. During puberty, both boys and girls produce high levels of  androgens, the male sex hormones that include testosterone. Testosterone signals the body to make more sebum, a waxy substance that helps the skin retain moisture.

Bacteria. Excess sebum clogs the openings to hair follicles — especially those on the face, neck, chest, and back. Bacteria grow in these clogged follicles. This makes blackheads or whiteheads form on the skin’s surface — a condition called non-inflammatory acne. Sometimes the follicle wall breaks under the pressure of this buildup. When this happens, sebum leaks into nearby tissues and forms a pustule — this is called inflammatory acne. This can create cysts.

Ruptured cysts can leave temporary or permanent scars.  Depending on the type of pill, oral contraceptives may trigger acne in some women but suppress it in others. Steroids taken by some bodybuilders and other athletes can also lead to severe outbreaks.

Acne has many subtypes. Acne neonatorum and acne infantum occasionally affect newborns and infants, usually boys. A pimply rash appears on the face but usually clears within weeks with no lasting effect. People who escaped their teen years almost pimple free may develop persistent adult-onset acne as they get older. Despite the normal increase in androgen levels during puberty, some doctors believe that flare-ups of acne have less to do with androgen levels than with how a person’s skin responds to an increase in sebum production. The bacteria Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis occur naturally in healthy hair follicles. If too many of them accumulate in plugged follicles, they may secrete enzymes that break down sebum and cause inflammation. Some people are simply more sensitive than others to this reaction. Sebum levels that might cause a pimple or two in one person may result in widespread outbreaks — or even acute cystic acne — in another person.

What causes acne?

No one factor causes acne. Acne happens when oil (sebaceous) glands come to life around puberty stimulated by male hormones from the adrenal glands of both boys and girls. Oil is a natural substance which lubricates and protects the skin, and under certain circumstances, cells that are close to the surface block the openings of sebaceous glands and cause a buildup of oil underneath. This oil stimulates bacteria, (which live in everyone’s skin and generally cause no problems), to multiply and cause surrounding tissues to become inflamed.

If the inflammation is right near the surface, you get a pustule; if it’s deeper, a papule (pimple); deeper still and it’s a cyst. If the oil breaks though to the surface, the result is a “whitehead.” If the oil becomes oxidized (that is, acted on by oxygen in the air), the oil changes from white to black, and the result is a “blackhead.”

Some factors that don’t usually cause acne, at least by themselves are:

* Heredity: With the exception of very severe acne, most people do not have the problem exactly as their parents did. Almost everyone has some acne at some point in their life.
* Food: All over the world, parents tell teens to avoid pizza, chocolate, greasy and fried foods, and junk food. While these foods may not be good for overall health, they don’t cause acne or make it worse.
* Dirt: Some individuals have more “oily” skin than others (as mentioned above, “Blackheads” are oxidized oil, not dirt). Sweat does not cause acne, therefore, it is not necessary to shower instantly after exercise for fear that sweat will clog pores. On the other hand, excessive washing can dry and irritate the skin.
* Stress: Some people get so upset by their pimples that they pick at them and make them last longer. Stress, however, does not play much of a direct role in causing acne.
* Hormones: Some women break out cyclically, but most women (and men) don’t. Some oral contraceptive pills may help relieve acne, but unless a woman has abnormal menstrual periods and excessive hair growth, it’s unlikely that hormones play much of a role in causing acne.
* Cosmetics: Most cosmetic and skin care products are not pore-clogging (“comedogenic.”) Of the many available brands, those which are listed as “water-based” or “oil-free” are generally a better choice.

In occasional patients, contributing factors may be:

* Pressure: In some patients, pressure from helmets, chinstraps, collars, and the like can aggravate acne.
* Drugs: Some medications may cause or worsen acne, such as those containing iodides, bromides, or oral or injected steroids (either the medically prescribed prednisone or the steroids bodybuilders or athletes take.) Most cases of acne, however, are not drug-related.
* Occupations: In some jobs, exposure to industrial products like cutting oils may produce acne.

Natural anti-acne treatments can include topical tropical treatments, such as cleansers, creams and facial masks. Facial masks can be used once or twice a week. Anti-acne masks will contain natural ingredients with astringent properties like rosemary, tea tree or lavender and can control excess sebum and inflammation. Look for a product that is close to natural or herbal as possible.

Anti-acne masks will reduce the amount of inflammation and pimples and help prevent future outbreaks. Simply find the mask that is best for your skin type, apply it in a thin layer to cover the face and neck area - wait the allotted amount of time - 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse off with lukewarm water.

Zinc Oxide Skin Care Reduces Acne Breakouts

You may have first seen zinc on a summer day at the beach or your local swimming pool. Lifeguards traditionally use the thick, white cream to cover their nose and cheeks to prevent sunburn. You may have learned then, that it was the strongest sunblock available – it just wasn’t very attractive.

In the eighties, zinc sun protection got a makeover, with bight neon colors. Applying wacky colors all over your face was fun and it blocked out the sun’s rays. Almost completely, and it stayed on - almost too well.

Today, thankfully, formulations have improved and zinc is no longer the eyesore it once was. It does, however, still protect your skin from sun damage and wrinkles and recent findings have shown zinc offers anti-microbial benefits that also reduce acne and breakouts.

So, what exactly is zinc and how does it work?

Zinc is a natural mineral, minced and refined to a fluffy white powder. Zinc becomes Zinc Oxide after the mineral is oxidized. Oxidation allows the mineral to be slightly changed giving it new properties. Zinc Oxide is used widely in cosmetics and natural skin care products and is quickly replacing the use of Titanium Oxide in sunscreens.

Because zinc is completely natural, it is an excellent ingredient to use in natural skin care products and beauty treatments. Before many of its

beneficial properties were known, Zinc Oxide was initially used in cosmetics as a whitening agent to moisturizing lotions, facial creams and most sunscreens.

Zinc Oxide has been the ingredient of choice for sunscreens, sun protection and cosmetics. Zinc Oxide is categorized as a physical sunscreen, therefore SPF labels are not given to the mineral. SPF or sun protected factor only relates to chemical sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens such as PABA and Oxybenzone absorb the suns rays; where as Zinc Oxide actually blocks the rays. While some chemically-based sun protection products include zinc, they can not claim zinc as their primary component and must be labeled as such.

How does Zinc Actually “block” the Sun’s Rays?

Zinc Oxide works much like a diamond to bend (or refract) light. It is the only known element that can block both UVA (aging rays) and UVB (burning rays). Zinc Oxide has been approved and labeled by the FDA as safe for the skin as sun protection. It is important to note that Zinc Oxide is not an organic compound as it has undergone oxidation. Zinc Oxide should be 20 to 25 percent of ingredient in cosmetic or sunscreen to properly inhibit sun damage to the skin and prevent wrinkles from forming. As we all should know by now, one of the primary causes of aging skin and wrinkles, is the sun.

If blocking sun rays, preventing wrinkles and aging skin weren’t enough, pure zinc has also been found to be very effective in the treatment and care of acne prone skin. Zinc regulates production of oil glands and hormone levels, two main triggers of acne. Zinc also helps absorb Vitamin A which promotes healing and fights bacteria. As with any acne treatment results may vary depending on diet and other environmental factors. It is always important to consult a dermatologist prior to any acne treatment. Zinc is commonly used in ointments for diaper rash, minor scrapes and burns, dry scalp and irritated skin.

In addition to the benefits on the skin zinc helps maintain many healthy body functions. Zinc plays a role in strengthening the immune system by assisting white blood cell development, protecting the body form infection. Lack of zinc to the body can result in a week immune system. As zinc plays a vital role in the immune system it is imperative to acquire the proper amount of zinc while pregnant. Zinc helps reduce inflammation and infection. Proper amounts of zinc in a diet have shown to contribute to proper growth, strength, and endurance. Zinc is also involved in stimulating many enzymes which play an essential role in metabolism. Zinc has been found to benefit the inside and outside health of our bodies and can be found in many topical creams, like Vivoderm’s zinc repairing cream, as well as in many nutrient rich foods.

According to the American Zinc Association, zinc seals and protects the skin. “Zinc is essential for healthy skin. As a drying agent and astringent, zinc oxide has been used for generations to soothe diaper rash and relieve itching. And zinc is a natural sun screen, protecting chapped lips and skin from the sun’s harmful rays. Zinc sulfate is effective in treating some cases of acne. And in a water-based solution, zinc sulfate helps remedy cold sores. Zinc also improves healing of wounds, like surgical incisions, burns and other skin irritations. Used as an anti-inflammatory, zinc soothes skin and skin tissue. Poison ivy, sunburn, blisters and gum disease are all improved when treated with zinc. It is even a natural insect repellent. And zinc stimulates the transport of Vitamin A from the liver to the skin, helping to protect body tissue from damage.”

So, remember, if you are interested in protecting your skin from the sun, preventing wrinkles and aging skin and reducing your acne breakouts – zinc might just be the all in one treatment for you. Look on the back of cosmetic and food labels to see if you are getting the benefits of zinc in your diet and beauty routine

Know Your Acne - Forms of Acne and Proper Treatment

There are many different forms of acne ranging from mild to severe, it is important to understand what form of acne you have in order to treat it properly. Acne is initiated when excess oil and dead skin cells combine to plug the pore of a hair follicle; behind the plugged pore, bacteria grow and multiply, triggering inflammation and swelling. Acne can range in severity in conjunction with external factors and hormones. Acne Vulgaris is the most common form of acne. Mild to moderate Acne Vulgaris consists of blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules. While  severe Acne Vulgaris is characterized by mild to moderate Acne Vulgaris along with nodules and cysts.

Acne Vulgaris (mild to moderate) includes blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules.

Blackheads are pores clogged with debris such as oil, dirt and dead skin, the black color is due to the bacteria being exposed to the air.

Blackheads are opened lesions and can be cleared by an esthetician or dermatologist. To treat and prevent blackheads cleanse the skin properly and use a facial exfoliate to clear dead skin cells off the surface of the skin. Dead cleansing masks like ash or clay masks may be used to extract surface blackheads form the pore.

When a pore is completely blocked, with trapped sebum (oil), bacteria, and dead skin cells, it will cause a white appearance on the surface resulting in what is known as whitehead. These types of lesions should not be extracted and usually clear rather quickly. Whites can be avoided by controlling surface oils and using a cleansing product that contains benzyl peroxide or salicylic acid. These act as antiseptics under the skin, killing bacteria.

Papules are inflamed, red, tender bumps with no head. Papules are caused by debris mostly dead skin cells being trapped in the follicle or pore. The most common way to treat and prevent papules is to exfoliate regularly. Do not try to extract papules as they may become infected and worsen. Instead be patient and exfoliate regularly, and much like whites use a cleanser with benzyl peroxide or salicylic acid.

Pustules can be confused with whiteheads; however pustules are inflamed pores that contain bacteria. These lesions can be very sore and the

bacteria are considered a strain of staphylococcus, and thus can spread on your skin rapidly. This is why it is important to only allow a dermatologist to extract pustules. Cleansers and acne treatments with a form of antiseptic is best on these types of lesion. Exfoliation should be mild and gentle and an anti-inflammatory can be taken to decrease pain and redness.

Severe Acne Vulgaris is distinguished by the above lesions along with nodules and cysts.

Nodules and Cystic acne look very similar; both are large and painful and are inflamed clogged pores or multiple areas that contain bacteria. Nodules and Cysts rarely come to the surface and can take months to clear. These types of lesions are usually hormonal and caused by bacteria under the skin. These lesions should be monitored closely by a dermatologist and extracted by a doctor, however scaring is likely, so it is best to consult a dermatologist and let the nodule or cysts run its course.

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