SUPER SKIN IN FOUR SIMPLE STEPS

While we can all appreciate a good concealer or botox, ignoring the underlying problems by covering them up is no answer. Truly beautiful skin can only come from a good basic skin care routine. Clear, beautiful, healthy skin doesn’t just ‘happen,’ it comes effort and a good skin care routine. Surprisingly, many women today rely on cosmetics and surgical procedures to hide or repair the damage that has occurred from years of improper skin maintenance.

Most dermatologist and skin experts recommend consistently following a daily skin care routine. This does not have to be complicated or time-consuming.  Your daily routine can be performed in as little as five to ten minutes.

Four Simple Steps

* Cleanse
* Tone / Treat
* Moisturize
* Protect

A typical skin care routine includes the following steps: washing/cleansing, toning / treating (optional depending on skin type), moisturizing and sun protection.

Optimize for your skin type
The steps of the basic routine should be adjusted to fit your skin type. Your skin type may change with the season, diet and age. Skin tends to be oilier in the summer and drier in the winter. Menopause often brings about a change from oily or normal to dry skin. Conversely, a shift from a low-fat diet to that rich in certain fats (particularly essential fatty acids) may turn dry skin to normal. Skin pigmentation affects the degree to which you need sun protection. While sun damages any skin, the damage is far less in dark-skinned people. Conversely, fair skinned people need to be particularly meticulous about sun protection by minimizing sun exposure, choosing an effective sunscreen and applying it frequently and consistently.

Depending on your skin type, you may want to use your routine once in the morning and again before you sleep. Those with dry and/or sensitive skin may do better with once a day washing/cleansing while moisturizing two or more times a day. Exfoliation, to remove excess oils and prevent acne or blackheads, is also recommended in some cases, but exercise caution as daily exfoliation may be excessive and can lead to chronic irritation. Exfoliation once or twice a week is usually sufficient. Younger skin, like that in your 20’s and 30’s will have a fast natural epidermal turnover may need little to no exfoliation.

Cleansing
Cleaning facial skin is even more important than cleaning your body. Your face, unlike your body, is exposed to elements all day long. Dirt, pollution and oil from hands all accumulate on the epidermal layer and can clog pores and cause acne eruptions or inflammation. Like all skin care products, the best cleanser for you will be determined by your skin type. If you suffer from oily or acne-prone skin, you may benefit from an oil-free gel cleanser or one containing salicylic acid. Mature or dry skin will do best with a cream cleanser to help retain moisture. Once your face and neck are cleansed, rinse with lukewarm water and pat your skin lightly with a towel.

Toning / Treating
Toning can consist of using a store-bought toner, astringent or simple Witch Hazel. Toning or treating will balance the ph level of the skin and remove any residual dirt or oil not picked up from your cleanser. For those over the age of thirty, adding a well-selected treatment or two with scientifically proven active ingredients can further improve your results. Treatment can mean anything from skin rejuvenation products, skin discoloration items and oil absorbing agents to applying medicines for acne or eczema. If you suffer from multiple skin conditions, select an initial treatment aimed at the broadest improvement and then fine tune things from there.
Be aware of applying products to un-cleansed skin as the penetration of active ingredients will be greatly reduced. If you cleanse, moisturize and then apply advanced products, the penetration of active ingredients may still be reduced because the moisturizer has blocked some the entryways.

Moisturize
Moisturizers are essential to keep skin cells plump and hydrated. Hydrated skin will show fewer lines, wrinkles and imperfections. Even if you have oily or acne prone skin, you may still need some hydration. Look for gel-based moisturizers or lightweight formulations. Many medications and treatments appropriate for dealing with acne or oily skin automatically are drying. Don’t make the mistake of drastically drying out your skin until it is a challenge to repair. During the fall and winter months your skin may be even more vulnerable thanks to reduced humidity from indoor heating and excessive hot showers or baths.

Apply your moisturizer when your skin is clean, warm and still slightly moist. Since many active treatments have moisturizing ingredients, you may be able to skip a separate moisturizer. If you feel that you need additional moisturizing, wait a few minutes for the active treatments to absorb, and then apply your favorite moisturizer over it.

Protect
Wearing sunscreen or sun protection EVERY DAY is the proven best way to block harmful UV rays and diminish formation of wrinkles, skin discolorations and to reduce your chances of developing skin cancer. A good UVA+UVB sunscreen should be applied on top of your moisturizer or other treatments as a final step of your routine whenever sun exposure is expected.  Sunscreens come in a wide variety of bases, from those meant for oily skin to hydrating versions. Those with sensitivities to chemical sunscreens can choose natural Zinc Oxide formulations. Protective clothing can also now be improved thanks to new laundry treatments with UV protectant for widespread areas of the body mistakenly thought to be protected by your clothing.

Some skin care products or cosmetics contain added UV blockers, but they may not be enough, using a separate, specially formulated sunscreen is proven to be more effective.

And that’s it! Cleanse, Tone / Treat, Moisturize and Protect. Use these four simple steps to achieve beautiful, healthy skin. For a lifetime of skin care that can help leave your skin looking its very best, see your healthy skin as a clean canvass upon which to paint any improvements.

Author: Rachelle Dupree
Vivoderm Natural Skincare

Sunscreens, UVB and UVA Rays

By Van Le |  Summer is here! It’s time to tie up that new bathing suit, fire up the grill, and most importantly, slather on the sunscreen. The importance of sun care escalates as knowledge of skin cancer increases in the United States, and the National Cancer Institute estimates that there are more than one million new cases of skin cancer in 2009 alone. Still, loyal sunbathers and frequent beach-goers are able to enjoy some fun in the sun thanks to the vast array of sunscreen available. Sunscreens are available in several forms, including lotion, sprays, ointments, and sticks, and are often labeled with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which can range from 2 to 50. The higher the SPF, the more sun protection, and most dermatologists recommend using a sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher.

Sunscreen protects the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays from the sun, and too much exposure to these rays can cause sunburn and wrinkles. Long term sun exposure can lead to cancer, which is the most common type of cancer, according to the American Cancer Association. Most sunscreens contain zinc oxide, which as the ability to filter UVA and UVB rays to protect the skin. Zinc oxide has been used in skin products for many years and can be used with all skin types.

UVradiation, a known carcinogen, can have a number of harmful effects on the skin. The two types of UV radiation that can affect the skin—UVA and UVB—have both been linked to skin cancer and a weakening of the immune system. They also contribute to premature aging of the skin and cataracts (a condition that impairs eyesight), and cause skin color changes.

UVA Rays

UVA rays, which are not absorbed by the ozone layer, penetrate deep into the skin and heavilycontribute to premature aging. Up to 90 percent of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by sun exposure.

UVB Rays

These powerful rays, which are partially absorbed by the ozone layer, mostly affect the surface of the skin and are the primary cause of sunburn. Because of the thinning of the ozone layer, the effects of UVB radiation will pose an increased threat until the layer is restored in the latter half of the 21st century.

The following table from the FDA lists these ingredients and includes information regarding the type and amount of ray protection that they provide and their class.

Is a Suntan Healthy?

Just remember, there is no such thing as a healthy suntan. Any change in your natural skin color is a sign of skin damage. Every time your skin color changes after sun exposure, your risk of developing sun-related ailments increases.

What Is In Your Sunscreen?

There is more to sunscreens that meets the eye. Here are a few points you should keep in mind when selecting one:

1. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is not the only way to judge sunscreen. SPF gives an indication of how well a sunscreen will protect your skin from ultraviolet-B light (which causes sunburn and skin cancer. See www.SkinCancerGuide.ca ) but tells you nothing about a sunscreen’s ability to protect you from ultraviolet-A light (which causes wrinkles, and also contributes to skin cancer). If you want protection against UV-A, be sure that your sunscreen includes avobenzone (Parsol-1789), Mexoryl®, titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide.

2. Some sunscreens last longer than others. UV light causes some sun screening agents to break down and lose their sun screening ability. Mexoryl®, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide do not break down when exposed to UV light, and so keep on protecting you from UV throughout the day.
3. Some sun screening agents stay on the skin better than others, and this is important if you will be sweating heavily or swimming. In general, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide stay on the skin longer that most other sun screening agents. To reduce the chance that titanium or zinc based sunscreens will look pale or white on the skin, choose products containing “ultramicronized” titanium or zinc, which is so fine that it is transparent to visible light but still does a good job of absorbing and reflecting ultraviolet light.

4. Sunscreens are available as creams, gels, and sprays. Creams are best for use on smooth skin, and some creams are prepared using water-resistant formulas so that the product will stay on the skin longer if you are sweating or enjoying water sports. Gels and sprays are preferred by some people, and in particular can be easier to apply than creams on hairy areas and on the scalp.

When choosing sunscreens for yourself, your family and your workers it is important to consider the cosmetic acceptability of the sunscreen, because if someone does not LIKE the sunscreen they will not use it. Thus, a nice sunscreen with an SPF of 30 which you are happy to apply daily will give you more actual sun protection than a higher SPF product which is too greasy or too white for your taste so is not used on a regular basis.

If you get into the habit of applying a sunscreen (or a sunscreen-containing prescription product like Retisol-A 0.01% cream) every morning, you can really slow the clock down, and even reverse some of the sun damage you have accumulated over the years.

About the author: By Kevin C. Smith MD FACP FRCPC
Dr. Kevin Smith is a dermatologist in Niagara Falls, Ontario with a particular interest in protecting the skin and in correcting skin problems resulting from aging, rosacea and sun damage. He is an expert in the use of Botox®, fillers, lasers and intense pulsed light to maintain and enhance the appearance of the skin, and have lectured on those subjects across North America, and in Europe, Asia and Mexico. Read more at www.smithlaser.com